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I'm still coughing up dust! That was the most jeeps I've ever seen in one campground!

Looks good.......and like alot of fun! Great pic's Jon!!!!

Nice...good to see you guys out wheeling. We need a little rain to knock down that dust.

Looks like you had a great time! For a second there I thought that was your Jeep lying on its side, then I saw the tube fenders...

Nothing like breathing pure dust for an entire day haha. I was so torn up when I got home. So much fun! My Jeep is a MESS. I haven't even touched it yet. Its got at least 2-3mm thick dust inside on EVERYTHING. Other than needing a new radiator, oil pump, u-joint, and some steering adjustments, it was a fun trip!!!

Jesse, I forgot about your draglink, do you still need help adjusting it? Got my hub fixed, somehow the spring that engages it got turned sideways??????

i am in the process of taking the pitman arm off, and centering the steering box. Then i am going to align the drag link. Thats probably all it is? The wheels seem to be pointed slightly out from center when they are both pointed straight. what do you suppose that is?

xj97jks wrote:i am in the process of taking the pitman arm off, and centering the steering box. Then i am going to align the drag link. Thats probably all it is? The wheels seem to be pointed slightly out from center when they are both pointed straight. what do you suppose that is?

they should be toe'd out a little....

You don't need to take the steering box off, and I'd bet you either have bad wheel bearings, or your axle tubes are bent. Your tires look like this? / \

they have always had the camber in front. The axle tubes dont appear to be bent, but it would probably take someone else looking at it to really decide if i'm blind or not. Wheel bearings are about 8 months old though. they could be bad but I dont feel any more vibrations than normal.

Might need some offset balljoints?

Hey Jessie, inflate your tires to an equal pressure all around and park the Jeep on a level surface. Use a tape measure and measure from ground to bottom of axle tube in several spots......if measurements are different (usually larger measurement as you move away from the diff/tubes are prob. bent). Also you can put a small level on the front hubs or rims (if able). Figure out how many degrees it is off plum (i used a roofing triangle and a standard level). You can get upper ball joint 0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2 degrees offset thru most autoparts stores. This can correct your "toed-in" tires....like Justin mentioned above! Make sure you gusset up the "C's", truss the tubes and sleeve them as we have talked before. You want to get things as straight as you can and keep them that way! Hope this helps? BTW.....this is how I corrected (with help from a welder I know;) ) my front axle problem......Good luck with it! (I figured it is cheaper then starting over!!!!!!!!)

possibly. Me and friend did the ball joints a while back, and it was just stock replacement parts, and it was still cambered after being replaced. I dont know. Is it that bad? other than wearing the tires out

You can run it that way....just understand the front tube could break (given right situation)! And like you said, it will wear out tires faster! Do what you want! It maybe cosmetic now and structual later???? Also offset joint are more money....and work!

Go get a Dana 44 with locker, keep your steering and be done with it!

SUPAFLY wrote:Go get a Dana 44 with locker, keep your steering and be done with it!

I agree if that's a dana 30 your currently running?

white knuckler wrote:Hey Jessie, inflate your tires to an equal pressure all around and park the Jeep on a level surface. Use a tape measure and measure from ground to bottom of axle tube in several spots......if measurements are different (usually larger measurement as you move away from the diff/tubes are prob. bent). Also you can put a small level on the front hubs or rims (if able). Figure out how many degrees it is off plum (i used a roofing triangle and a standard level). You can get upper ball joint 0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2 degrees offset thru most autoparts stores. This can correct your "toed-in" tires....like Justin mentioned above! Make sure you gusset up the "C's", truss the tubes and sleeve them as we have talked before. You want to get things as straight as you can and keep them that way! Hope this helps? BTW.....this is how I corrected (with help from a welder I know;) ) my front axle problem......Good luck with it! (I figured it is cheaper then starting over!!!!!!!!)

I will try this over the weekend!

SInce I already have my steering, links, and everything to fit my Dana 30, I'm going to truss, and sleeve kit it up (with sleeve kit it will be STRONGER than a D44) and I think I will be good to go. As far the ball joints go...I think I'm going to just deal with the camber. Its been like that forever, so as long as the tubes aren't bent, I'm rollin with it!

Who told you it'd be stronger than a D44? A D30 has a 7.2" ring gear and 8.5" for a D44. A D30 also has 27 spline axles and 30 spline for the D44. Its your axle, do what you want, but I'd be careful where you get your info.

To clarify...I have a D44 and had it sleeved/trussed it! (I also am running mild V8 power.) Bottom line is you (or I (speaking from personal experience...lol)) can break anything and how much money do you want to spend on it? Your steering knuckles, tie rod ends and drag bar will fit a D44. BUT still need D44 housing, gears, locker, and d44 inner shafts?? I almost went to a D60 or high 9 on my rig.......deceided not to for three reasons 1) MONEY 2) wieight and size (bigger the axle..less ground clearence/heavier....most of the time) 3) and the only real problem with my current system was the housing wasn't holding up! In other words...the axles/u-joints, gears, and carrier were holding up (which are already paid for ), and the weak link was the housing!! So strengthened the housing and it is now holding up well! Other side of the coin is Mad Mark blow-out ring and pinion on D30 in Moab a few years back (trip ending beakage)?? He then went to a D44 and no issues since (not sure how much he had into the D44)! So no bouncing around or you will break it. Just throwing out some of my thoughts......

SUPAFLY wrote:Who told you it'd be stronger than a D44? A D30 has a 7.2" ring gear and 8.5" for a D44. A D30 also has 27 spline axles and 30 spline for the D44. Its your axle, do what you want, but I'd be careful where you get your info.

Im sorry, I meant the actual housing. I know the axle shafts and ring gear will never be stronger than a D44. I think I am on the hunt for a D44 now.

I do have a question in finding a Dana 44 that will work for my jeep. I currently have a hp30 axle drivers side pumpkin and the lug pattern is 5x4.5. Is there any way to maintain that pattern when I switch to D44, if so what vehicle should I be looking to get my axle from? If not, I guess I will have to run two different sets of wheels. Unless there is some sort of adapters?

D44 out of a TJ Rubicon.......same wideth and 5 on 4.5! So prob. have to sleeve/gusset/truss that if running your oversize tires? (I tore my up housing with oversized tires....oppps, but ring/pinion/carrier & axles strong!) Ask Mad Mark....he put one in his TJ!